![]() “And if you think about it, the noodle is really just the method of transport into your mouth.” If tagliatelle is like Scotch tape, with plenty of sauce-sticking surface, spaghetti is more like a string: “You’re going to have a hard time getting that in with a few strands,” she says. “A bolognese is really just a bunch of crumbled meat,” says Pelaccio. This pairing is historical, as Bologna is known for its fresh egg pasta-dried spaghetti, which is made of wheat, is generally from Naples, much further south. Fresh pasta width comparisons, including two types of tagliatelle. “They eat a wider noodle.” The number one choice, she says, is tagliatelle-a long, flat ribbon of pasta, about a centimeter wide, and cooked fresh instead of dried. “They don’t even eat spaghetti in Bologna,” explains culinary historian Linda Pelaccio. The most basic concerns whether or not bolognese can be eaten with spaghetti at all. Like most good controversies, the spaghetti bolognese spat consists of a series of nested disagreements. Earlier this year, another chef, Antonio Carluccio, doubled down: “When I first tasted it, in a little Italian restaurant, I was so horrified I sent it straight back to the kitchen,” he told the Daily Mail. “Bolognese is the most abused Italian dish,” the chef Massimo Bottura, who has three Michelin stars for his restaurant, Osteria Francescana, told Corriere della Sera in 2010. No no no no.”Īnd if you try to serve it up to an Italian, expect something close to a flipped table. She makes an X with her arms, as though warding off a great evil. “Oh my gosh, no,” says the first young woman he encounters in the footage. The British broadcaster and politician Michael Portillo found this out the hard way when he took a camera crew to the city seeking the dish. Spaghetti bolognese translates, roughly, to “spaghetti from Bologna.” But if you try to take this particular flavor train back where it supposedly comes from, forget it-you’ll be turned straight around. A view of Bologna from the Asinelli tower. While they may disagree on the particulars-Jamie flavors his with streaky bacon, while Emeril prefers pancetta-they’re happy to share their takes on what they clearly consider a classic dish. You may have even cooked it yourself: the internet offers recipes from such luminaries as Emeril Lagasse, Jamie Oliver, and Campbell’s. It’s on the menu everywhere from fancy restaurants to school cafeterias-in the U.K., “you’ll rarely find a meat and tomato ragu served with any other shape of pasta,” says food writer Felicity Cloake. ![]() If you’ve ever eaten Italian food outside of Italy, chances are you’ve dug into a great big bowl of the ‘bol-a savory glop of meat and tomato, served over a tangle of long, round noodles. I’m referring, of course, to spaghetti bolognese. ![]() Most grievously of all, it hijacks the dinner conversation. The focus of this discord inspires grand pronouncements. Others would boil themselves alive before letting the old traditions change. Some say the solution is worldliness-that we must expand the definitions of old standbys to reflect shifting realities. Eric Hossinger/CC BY 2.0Īll across the western world, from the tip of Italy’s boot to the coast of California, a conflict simmers.
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